A Wanderer in Paris

Most travellers from London enter Paris in the evening, and I think they are wise. I wish itwere possible again and again to enter Paris in the evening for the first time; but since it isnot, let me hasten to say that the pleasure of re-entering Paris in the evening is one thatcustom has almost no power to stale. Every time that one emerges from the Gare du Nordor the Gare St. Lazare one is taken afresh by the variegated and vivid activity of it all-themyriad purposeful self-contained bustling people, all moving on their unknown errandsexactly as they were moving when one was here last, no matter how long ago. For Parisnever changes: that is one of her most precious secrets. The London which one had left seven or eight hours before was populous enough and busyenough, Heaven knows, but London's pulse is slow and fairly regular, and even at hergayest, even when greeting Royalty, she seems to be advising caution and a carefuldemeanour. But Paris-Paris smiles and Paris sings. There is an incredible vivacity in heratmosphere. Sings! This reminds me that on the first occasion that I entered Paris-in the evening, ofcourse-my cabman sang. He sang all the way from the Gare du Nord to the Rue Caumartin. This seemed to me delightful and odd, although at first I felt in danger of attracting moreattention than one likes; but as we proceeded down the Rue Lafayette-which nothing butsong and the fact that it is the high road into Paris from England can render tolerable-Idiscovered that no one minded us. A singing cabman in London would bring out the RiotAct and the military; but here he was in the picture: no one threw at the jolly fellow any ofthe chilling deprecatory glances which are the birthright of every light-hearted eccentric inmy own land. And so we proceeded to the hotel, often escaping collision by the breadth of asingle hair, the driver singing all the way. What he sang I knew not; but I doubt if it was ofbattles long ago: rather, I should fancy, of very present love and mischief. But how fitting afirst entry into Paris!